Head Light Bulbs

The first thing that you need to do when replacing a headlight in your RV camper, is identify your application. You need to determine if you have sealed beam headlights, composite or module OEM headlights. If you have sealed beam headlights, it is time to upgrade. You should be using halogen by now. Next, identify what bulb you will need. If you are upgrading from sealed beam headlights, buy HELLA conversion headlights. They have the best that there is. They are made of glass instead of plastic. They are a little more expensive than the others, but they are well worth the buy. You will need to know the size of your lamps. You want to measure the height and width of the lamp. If you buy HELLA, it will come with a dust cap and a bulb.

First, you must remove the sealed beam headlights that are on your RV camper. The only tool that is needed for this is a “phillips head” screwdriver. Once you have that, you are ready to get started. Begin by unscrewing the headlight bezel. There will be two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. After unscrewing the bezel, remove the lamp and disconnect the wires. Your headlight has been removed! It is so easy that anyone can do it.

Next, you will install the new, composite headlight. Begin by installing the composite grille. You should have about ten bolts that will hold it place. The holes are pre-drilled at the factory and should line up, perfectly. Once your grille is in place, you are ready to install your composite headlights. You will need to cut the wires that were connected to the old headlights. There should be black, green, and brown wires. Then, cut the wires on the new, composite headlights, also. To connect the wires together, twist the black wires together, twist the green wires together, and then twist the green wires together. The black wires are your ground wires. The other two colored wires will work the HI and LOW beams on your RV Camper. To make sure that the wires do not fall apart, place a wire nut on each one.

Last, mount the headlight assemblies to your RV Camper. They should fit just right. Test to make sure the lights are working, properly. You are ready to get back on the road and go camping!

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If anyone owns a BMW 5 Series E39 model they may have this fault. A fault in the headlights tends to appear somewhere within the model years of 1998 and 1999. It seems to be a problem with the offside main beam headlight permanently staying on whether you have the ignition on or off and the headlight switch in the totally off position.

When this fault happened to me, I had the lights on for a short while and when I pulled up and went to switch the lights off again I found the main beam just would not go off. I went into the house where I had to go and do a job, but when I returned to the car about 10 minutes later the battery was already flat. After calling the breakdown service out, the man restarted the car and after much tutting just said “yeah well its a BM mate it could be anything but its probably just a relay or something that’s stuck on”. As a quick measure I took the bulb out to get me home and mulled over the puzzle all night.

The next morning I decided it had to be a relay that was at fault so I hunted around the car looking for relays for the lights. I checked the handbook for the location of it. I took panels off here and there,I removed literally every fuse and relay I could find, pulled them all out and put them back in again. And guess what the light would still not go off. So I started looking on the web for answers. I visited most of the BMW forums I could find and found a few owners that seemed to have the same problem. Some of the answers that came back were quite similar, some people said it had to be a relay, someone suggested removing the battery for 10 minutes, then reconnecting it again and it should all reset itself again and everything should be Ok. I tried the battery idea but that didn’t work either. So over the next week or so I went back to the web again and finally someone said they had tried those things and then eventually gave up and took their car to a BMW dealer.After parting with a wad of cash to pay BMW for their services, BMW said there are no relays to control the lights and the lights are all controlled by the “LCM”.

Now the “LCM” is the light control module that controls all the lights. If this LCM fails you just have to replace it. Simple! Apart from the LCM is only a BMW main dealer part, and the cost, over £200. At that time £200 was not quite an option for my pocket, so I drove around the next few months with the bulb still disconnected. Then MOT day started to loom and there was still no pocket money to buy the LCM. So I rang my cousin in desperation to ask if he had any ideas of how to get the car through the MOT?

He said to me “why don’t you cut the positive wire from the offending light, then run a new wire from the other light that’s working to it so they both run off the same supply. What a good idea! So I did exactly what he suggested. The car sailed through the MOT and another further 6 months down the line it is still working to this day. Which is just as well because the £200 is still not there.

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Visit my blogspot at: www.Alistun.blogspot.com [READ THE DESCRIPTION FOR MORE INFORMATION] Lvl 40 – 100 Guide www.youtube.com Lvl 75 – 120+ Guide: www.youtube.com Just a reminder that these are only a couple of trainings you can use for your Aran. Do not think that these are the only and places to train. Also, some of these training spots may not be suitable for your level depending on your equipments and stats. Most of the training spots I recommend below are flat maps, which makes it easier so you wouldn’t have to jump around and climb ladders constantly. And plus, it would be easier to hold your combo. *I’ve included links leading to some of my other videos that feature the training spots. Feel free to check them out for a reference or example. Also if you are funded, I suggest training at the stronger monsters at an earlier level. Lvl 1 – 20 : Quests -This isn’t hard, you just gotta do some quests (especially the required Aran ones). Lvl 20 – 30 Training: – Kerning City Party Quest [KPQ] – Ariant : Sand Rat, Scorpion – Haunted House: Rotting Skeleton (These have lower hp and more exp than the others.) – Sleepywood Mushroom Mini Dungeon: Zombie Mushroom and Horny Mushroom (This map has fast spawn and the Zombie Mushroom drop Chaos Scrolls 60%.) www.youtube.com Lvl 30 – 35: – Purple Plains 1: Sakura Cellion [These monsters drop a lot of mesos, so it would be easy to make a bit of money out of them] – Singapore Suburban Area 1: Freezer [These monsters have pretty low hp …

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High-intensity discharge (HID) lamps are a type of electrical lamps which produce light by means of an electric arc between tungsten electrodes housed inside a translucent or transparent fused quartz or fused alumina tube.

HID automotive lamps are using the technology similar to the common vapor-filled street lamps. And HID lamps are also called xenon lamps , just refer to the gas inside the lamps. In a Simpler wordings, HID is the upgraded lighting kits from the original halogen bulbs, it’s getting more popular this few years, as most of the new car models are all equipped with the HID Light Kits.

Advantages for HID Lights :

HID lights generate a greater output of light compared to the original halogen bulbs, which can up to 3 times. And its light covers almost 70% of the road, so it’s good for road safely as driver has a better vision on the road. If you have the experience in using the original halogen bulbs, the bulb life is always short, but HID lights can last up to 4-10 years with a greater durability, can withstand a greater amount of vibrations and shocks. HID light is a good choice when you are planning to upgrade your car headlight system, as it provides greater light with lesser power consumption, can save it up to 25%.

Color Temperature:

HID Color temperature refers to the degrees (K) , which simply the measures of the color for the lighting output, like golden yellow, white, crystal white, blue. Degree (k) refers only to the color, while lumen refers to the lighting intensity. So the higher the color temperature (degrees K) doesn’t mean a higher light intensity (lumen). Here is the summary for the common color temperature on the market — 3000K (Golden Yellow) , 4300K (Bright White), 5000K (white), 6000K (Crystal White),8000K (Crystal Blue), 10000K (Aqua Blue), 12000K (Purple-Blue).

Bulb Size :

The common bulb size is H1, H3, H4, H7, h13, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007, D1S, D2S. And it has single beam conversion, hi lo kits, Telescope and Bixenon kits. Here is the summary for the features and bulb sizes ranges for all those kits.

Single Beam Conversion Kits — H1, H3, H4-1, H7, 9004-1, 9005, 9006, 9007-1, with 2 ballasts and installation clamps.

Hi-lo Beam : H4-2, 9004-2. 9007-2 hid for low beam and halogen bulb for high beam, with 2 ballasts and installation clamps.

Telescope Kit : H4-3, 9004-3, 9007-3, single HID can switch between high beam and low beam, with 2 ballasts and installation clamps.

Bi-xenon Kit : H4-4, 9004-4, 9007-4, 2 HID bulbs on each bulb, which works for high and low beam, with 4 ballasts and installation clamps.

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Sylvania 31415 64156 H3 24V70W Miniature Automotive Light Bulb

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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Apr 06, 2011 08:48:35